Saturday, July 17, 2010
Word to the wise
Use lock tight on any and all bolts that hold aftermarket foot controls in place. I lost the toe pedal off of the aftermarket heel toe shifter that I just put on. The vibrations must have worked the nuts loose. I replaced all the bolts on the controls today with locking washers and Red lock tight. It is suppose to harden so tight that it requires heat to remove them. Sounds good to me. I really don't want them coming off again.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Brake Bleeding
I have been playing with the front brakes again and still not having a lot of success so I turned, like always, to the source of all knowledge. Google. This is what I found at
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/1994-Gold-Wing-SE.htm
Brake/Clutch Bleeding 101
By Mark Shively
Use high quality DOT 4 brake fluid (or preferred type) from a sealed container. Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Use a cooking type squeeze bulb baster to remove the bulk of the fluid. Use a paper towel to remove any remaining fluid. Top off the empty reservoir. Top them off periodically during this procedure. Do not spill any fluid on your bike because it may damage the paint. The front brake reservoir tends to spit fluid out the top during this process so make sure you place a bunch of rags, old blankets, or towels over the fuel tank.
You can make a bleeder drain container fairly easily by taking a plastic container with a screw on lid. Put a hole in the container lid just large enough to get the hose through. Put a short section of hose on the bleed valve on the brake caliper. Put the drain container on the other end to catch the runoff. You'll need to move the hose and container around to each caliper as you work, or use more than one container.
Use a wrench to open the bleed valve while simultaneously squeezing the lever (or pedal). About 2/3 of a turn on the wrench will do it. Fluid should run out of the hose at this time. When you squeeze to within 3/4 of your full lever pull, use the wrench to close the bleeder valve. It is important that you close the valve before hitting full travel on the lever. Release the lever and repeat the process (squeeze lever, open valve, close valve, release lever) until the fluid runs with no bubbles and the lever is firm. You'll be amazed how firm you can get your system.
While this way will work and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, it is a big misconception that you have to shut the bleeder valve between every pump/squeeze of the lever. People do this on their cars, too. Pump, Open/Close; Pump, Open/Close…. You really don't need to do this. As long as you've got fluid flowing through the bleeder tube, you can just keep pumping/squeezing the lever until fresh brake fluids runs through the system. The end result is a flushed and bled system. Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off. If you bleed it dry, you'll have to start all over again. This how pro motorcycle mechanics flush a hydraulic brake system.
I'll have to give it a shot. So much for DOT 3.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/1994-Gold-Wing-SE.htm
Brake/Clutch Bleeding 101
By Mark Shively
Use high quality DOT 4 brake fluid (or preferred type) from a sealed container. Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Use a cooking type squeeze bulb baster to remove the bulk of the fluid. Use a paper towel to remove any remaining fluid. Top off the empty reservoir. Top them off periodically during this procedure. Do not spill any fluid on your bike because it may damage the paint. The front brake reservoir tends to spit fluid out the top during this process so make sure you place a bunch of rags, old blankets, or towels over the fuel tank.
You can make a bleeder drain container fairly easily by taking a plastic container with a screw on lid. Put a hole in the container lid just large enough to get the hose through. Put a short section of hose on the bleed valve on the brake caliper. Put the drain container on the other end to catch the runoff. You'll need to move the hose and container around to each caliper as you work, or use more than one container.
Use a wrench to open the bleed valve while simultaneously squeezing the lever (or pedal). About 2/3 of a turn on the wrench will do it. Fluid should run out of the hose at this time. When you squeeze to within 3/4 of your full lever pull, use the wrench to close the bleeder valve. It is important that you close the valve before hitting full travel on the lever. Release the lever and repeat the process (squeeze lever, open valve, close valve, release lever) until the fluid runs with no bubbles and the lever is firm. You'll be amazed how firm you can get your system.
While this way will work and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, it is a big misconception that you have to shut the bleeder valve between every pump/squeeze of the lever. People do this on their cars, too. Pump, Open/Close; Pump, Open/Close…. You really don't need to do this. As long as you've got fluid flowing through the bleeder tube, you can just keep pumping/squeezing the lever until fresh brake fluids runs through the system. The end result is a flushed and bled system. Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off. If you bleed it dry, you'll have to start all over again. This how pro motorcycle mechanics flush a hydraulic brake system.
I'll have to give it a shot. So much for DOT 3.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Found: 1 Front Brake Switch
So I was talking to Dennis Jorgensen today at the gym after he offered me to take a ride on his new Kawasaki bullet bike, and decided that I'd see how much they would charge me for the parts. I went into the store this afternoon and started talking to the parts guy. He was able to get me the switch for under 20 bucks with tax. I went with it because that was the best price I could find online as well.
He looked up the rebuild kit for the master cylinder and it was 50 something. I told him that I was waiting for an after market one for $20. He then said that he could sell it for $40 and if I changed my mind about waiting for the after market parts he would still honor that price. Not bad, but I'm holding out for partsnmore. I'll likely order new clutch plates at the same time.
He looked up the rebuild kit for the master cylinder and it was 50 something. I told him that I was waiting for an after market one for $20. He then said that he could sell it for $40 and if I changed my mind about waiting for the after market parts he would still honor that price. Not bad, but I'm holding out for partsnmore. I'll likely order new clutch plates at the same time.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Parts Hunt
I found the front stop switch online for about 20 bucks plus shipping. The master cylinder rebuild kit is anywhere from 20 to 80 dollars. I'm going to check with the Honda shop here and see what they can get it for. I'm not expecting it to be less but it is worth a try. Otherwise I wait for partsnmore to get it in stock.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
MSF Basic Riders Course
Here are the Dixie College dates for the rest of the year. I'm going to go on Oct 14-15 I think. I like the two day course better then the 3 short days.
September 3-5 BRC 01
September 10-12 BRC 02
September 17-19 BRC 03
September 24-26 BRC 04
October 2-3 BRC 05
October 9-10 BRC 06
October 14 ERC 01
October 14-15 BRC 07 Thursday/Friday class
October 16-17 BRC 08
October 23-24 BRC 09
October 30-31 BRC 10
November 6-7 BRC 11
November 13-14 BRC 12
November 20-21 BRC 13
December 4-5 BRC 14
December 11-12 BRC 15
December 18-19 BRC 16
December 21-22 BRC 17
Vicki Baldwin
Community Education Secretary
652-7664
September 3-5 BRC 01
September 10-12 BRC 02
September 17-19 BRC 03
September 24-26 BRC 04
October 2-3 BRC 05
October 9-10 BRC 06
October 14 ERC 01
October 14-15 BRC 07 Thursday/Friday class
October 16-17 BRC 08
October 23-24 BRC 09
October 30-31 BRC 10
November 6-7 BRC 11
November 13-14 BRC 12
November 20-21 BRC 13
December 4-5 BRC 14
December 11-12 BRC 15
December 18-19 BRC 16
December 21-22 BRC 17
Vicki Baldwin
Community Education Secretary
652-7664
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Backordered?
How many people can there be that are ordering master cylinder rebuild kits? My favorite busted old bike vendor is sold out of them. It is clear that I need to rebuild the cylinder. After cleaning the calipers and greasing them up it took a ridiculously long time to pump them back up and once they are the won't hold pressure. It makes for a scary ride pumping the brakes every time you need to stop. Forget about stopping fast. It just isn't safe to ride until I get it changed. I can't even salvage from the other bike because Mother Honda changed the control from 78 to 79. Guess it will be a while longer before we take it out again.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Brakes
I started asking around on forums about squeaking brakes and the best advice I received was to rebuild the calipers. So, they are off the bike and mostly in pieces. The pistons are stuck in the caliper. Likely the cause of the squealing. I'll need to use an air chuck to push them out then brush them up with some emery cloth to clean them up. Lube them up a little and put it all back together. With any luck I'll have a winner. While I'm at it I'm going to drain all the synthetic DOT 3 and use the traditional DOT 3. I bought the synthetic on mistake and didn't realize it until I started pouring it in. It seems really slick and I don't think that the master cylinder pumps it as well.
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